Tailcoat or dinner suit – what's the difference?

The key differences

• The jacket: The tailcoat is short at the front, has two long tails at the back and is worn open. The dinner jacket looks like a regular blazer, has satin lapels and can be buttoned.
• The bow tie and waistcoat: A white bow tie and white waistcoat are worn with a tailcoat. A black bow tie and often a waistcoat or cummerbund are worn with a dinner suit.
• The shirt: A white dress shirt with a stiff front and usually a wing collar is worn with a tailcoat. A white dress shirt with a plain, marcella or pleated front is worn with a dinner suit.
• The trousers and shoes: Both tailcoat and dinner suit trousers usually have a silk braid along the outer seams. For a tailcoat, black patent shoes are the classic choice. For a dinner suit, patent shoes or well-polished black formal shoes both work.

How to choose the right attire

Always read the dress code on the invitation:

• Tailcoat or white tie: choose a tailcoat
• Ceremonial dress: usually means a tailcoat for men
• Dinner suit or black tie: choose a dinner suit

The tailcoat is worn on the most formal occasions, such as certain balls, academic ceremonies and formal weddings. The dinner suit is worn for festive dinners, galas and other events with a black tie dress code.

A dinner suit does not replace a tailcoat if the invitation specifies tailcoat or white tie.

Also read Tailcoat dress code – what's included? for a simple rundown of the tailcoat's different parts.