Tailcoat dress code – what's included?

What does the tailcoat dress code mean?

Tailcoat, ceremonial dress and white tie are three terms for the same attire: the most formal evening dress for men. It is worn at academic ceremonies, major galas and balls, Nobel dinners and certain weddings where the hosts explicitly request it. The dress code is strict and leaves little room for personal interpretation – the formality is precisely the point.

The invitation will usually say tailcoat, ceremonial dress or white tie. All three mean the same thing: full tailcoat attire with its accompanying accessories, not a dark suit with a bow tie.

What's included in a complete tailcoat outfit?

A complete tailcoat outfit consists of several garments and details that together make up the whole. If a part is missing, the overall impression becomes half-formal – something other guests wearing the correct attire will notice immediately.

• Frackrock
• Frackbyxa
• Frackväst (vit, kan bytas mot svart)
• Frackskjorta
• Fluga
• Hängslen
• Manschettknappar
• Bröstknappar
• Näsduk
• Lackskor

The tailcoat is black or very dark navy, short at the front with two long tails at the back. The trousers have galon (a silk braid along the side seams) and are always worn with braces – never a belt. The shirt is stiff-fronted with studs and double cuffs, and the shoes are always black patent leather.

White or black waistcoat?

A white waistcoat is worn to balls, weddings and other festive occasions. A black waistcoat is used for certain academic and ceremonial occasions. Always follow the organiser's instructions – unless stated otherwise, white is the right choice.

Common mistakes to avoid

• A regular tie instead of a white bow tie. A tie has no place with a tailcoat.
• A black waistcoat for a festive occasion. Choose a white waistcoat unless the invitation says otherwise.
• A belt with the trousers. The trousers have no belt loops – braces are correct.
• Ordinary black shoes. The shoes should be shiny black patent leather.

Orders and medals with a tailcoat

At certain academic and royal ceremonies, orders and medals are worn with the tailcoat. If you are entitled to wear an order or medal, it sits on the left breast, often as a miniature on the tailcoat. Never wear decorations you are not entitled to – it is part of the dress code's etiquette.

At student balls, the invitation may specify ceremonial dress with orders, which means ceremonial dress along with academic orders for those entitled to wear them. If you do not have orders, you still wear full tailcoat attire.

How to make it easy

Buying every piece separately gets expensive, and items like the bow tie, studs and cufflinks are easy to forget. Renting a complete tailcoat outfit solves that: everything is included, and all you need to know is your size. Read on in the guide How should a tailcoat fit? for dressing and fit, or compare with Tailcoat or dinner suit – what's the difference? if you're unsure which attire applies.