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The Tailcoat Guide

How should a tailcoat fit?

A tailcoat consists of more parts than an ordinary suit. It's easier if you put them on in the right order. Here's a simple step-by-step guide and a quick checklist for how it should fit.

Put on your tailcoat in the right order

  1. Socks: Put on long black socks.
  2. Dress shirt: Put on the shirt and button it all the way up.
  3. Cufflinks and studs: Fasten the cufflinks and, if the shirt has separate studs, fasten those too.
  4. Trousers: Put on the trousers and tuck in the shirt.
  5. Braces: Attach and adjust the braces so the trousers sit high on the waist.
  6. Waistcoat: Put on and button the waistcoat. Check that it covers the trouser waistband.
  7. White bow tie: Fasten the bow tie around the collar and check that it sits straight and centred.
  8. Shoes: Put on the black patent shoes and check that the trousers fall neatly over them.
  9. Tailcoat: Put on the tailcoat last. Check that the long tails at the back hang straight.
  10. Pocket square: If you use a white pocket square, place it in the tailcoat's breast pocket.

How a tailcoat should fit

  • Shoulders: The shoulder seam should end exactly where your shoulder ends.
  • Sleeves: About one centimetre of the shirt cuff should be visible.
  • Trousers: Should sit high on the waist with braces and fall neatly over the shoes.
  • Shirt: The collar should sit close to the neck without feeling too tight.
  • Waistcoat: Should cover the trouser waistband so no shirt shows between waistcoat and trousers.
  • Bow tie: Should sit straight and centred.
  • Tailcoat: Worn open, with the long tails at the back hanging straight.

Shoes with a tailcoat

The correct shoes for a tailcoat are black lace-up patent leather shoes. They should be well polished and paired with long black socks that cover the calf. A pair of black patent shoes is always included in the LundaFrack tailcoat package, so you do not need to worry about having the right model at home.

The trousers should fall neatly over the shoes without creasing. When standing, no skin should show between the sock and the trouser leg.

Quick checklist

  • The bow tie sits straight and centred
  • Cufflinks and any studs are in place
  • The waistcoat covers the trouser waistband
  • The trousers sit high with braces
  • About one centimetre of the shirt cuff is visible
  • The tailcoat is worn open
  • The long tails at the back hang straight
  • Long black socks and black patent shoes are on

Not sure about your size? Enter your height, weight and shoe size on the homepage and get a size suggestion. Also read Tailcoat dress code – what's included? or Tailcoat or dinner suit – what's the difference?.

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